Back at the end of March, we managed to get ourselves out to Nepal again to visit suppliers and seek out exciting new products.

The last time we were in Nepal, the pandemic was still dampening travel and Thamel, the main tourist and handicraft area in Kathmandu, was very quiet. We were unsure what to expect this time but are always excited about seeing the people we work with in Nepal again and eating dahl bat and momos! As it turns out, Thamel was revived and busy once again, filled with a wondrous mix of wide-eyed tour groups, tired trekkers, street hawkers and hashish dealers.

Felt Producers

During our visit to a community of felt producers situated near Kathmandu, we had the opportunity to delve into the process behind crafting felt products. Notably, the majority of these skilled artisans were women, for whom this work serves as a vital source of income.

We watched as a sample hat was produced in front of our very eyes from a bundle of wool. Instead of the dubiously advertised baby yak wool that some street hawkers will try and sell, modern felt makers in Nepal use high quality New Zealand wool. This is thoroughly brushed and smoothed into sheets which are then cut and shaped using soap and water.

Decorative elements such as flowers and patterns can be applied at this stage. The hat is then placed on a metal pot to give the final shape and desired size. The felt makers take advantage of the hot Himalayan sun to dry their products when they can, this one however was given a quick machine dry.

Mask Carving

On another afternoon, we took a trip out just north of Bhaktapur, to Changu Narayan, the oldest Hindu temple still in use in the Kathmandu Valley. The temple is in a beautiful spot with a fascinating courtyard filled with statues of Vishnu and other deities.

When we visited, the central pagoda style temple had a cladding of bamboo scaffolding as repair work was underway. On the walk up to the temple itself however, there are a number of mask carving workshops and it is here that some of our masks are produced.

The masks are produced in the traditional style using a wooden mallet, a vast array of chisels and a lifetime of patient practice. Two or three woodcarvers work in each shop at a time, focused on their own mask in progress. From Bhairab to Ganesh, Buddha to Garuda, the masks display a huge number of divine countenances, some fearsome, some beatific, but all created to a masterful standard.

The Next Generation?

Many years ago (thirtyish!), Jo and Tim, the second generation of Siesta bloggers/buyers/directors, were taken to Nepal by the first generation, Les and Chris, on a buying trip. This time around, we had with us Alfie (4) and Theo (2), perhaps the third generation of intrepid Siesta buyers? Alfie and Theo were a sure fire hit with all the people we work with in Nepal and the boys were pleased to try out their newly learnt ‘Namaste!’ greetings.

There were challenging moments travelling with two young children however and there has never seemed to be as many motorbikes whizzing past as when you are clinging onto a toddler! But the kindness of the Nepalese people was once again in full force when a favourite teddy took a tumble from a rickshaw and was swiftly returned to its owner amongst the hustle and bustle of the streets of Kathmandu. One of the highlights of the trip for Alfie and Theo was meeting the children of the producers we work with in Nepal. Whilst the older generations enjoyed delicious homecooked mutton curry at the table, a meeting of the international society for the appreciation of playdough was held on the floor!

And what for the future?

So, with the input of three generations, we have returned with a huge selection of beautiful new products. We were excited to further increase our sari clothing range and expect some of this to arrive in time for the summer months. Inspired by meeting new felt producers, we developed some new felt hats and a range of purses and keyrings. This is just to name but a few of the new clothes and accessories that are now under production and on their way to us before Autumn Fair!

As always, it was wonderful to catch up with all the producers we work with in Nepal, meet new arrivals and hear all the latest news as well as see all the exciting new products they had been working on. The pre-covid buzz of the Thamel area has returned and Kathmandu did not disappoint.